Ancient City of Gondar in Northern Ethiopia

Palaces and Castles in the Historic Area North of Addis Ababa

Jul 10, 2009

Ethiopia's Fascinating History at Gondor, Marc Veraardt

Gondar is packed with tradition and an impressive display of Ethiopian history. The monuments have survived raids, earthquakes and the ravages of time.

As the 17th century capital of Ethiopia, Gondar is noted for its medieval castles and churches. Gondar remained the capital of Ethiopia until 1855 and the city was a vigorous center of religious learning and art. The city thrived for more than 200 years and has left its relics as an eerie and absorbing reminder of its artistic and often violent past.

Gondar is 500 kilometers north of Ethiopia's capital city Addis Ababa and nestles at the high altitude of 2,300 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Simien mountains.

Gondar – How to Get There

Ethiopian airways flies to Gondor daily from Addis Ababa. A return flight is approximately $100 but it can be cheaper to make a reservation and pay in Addis Ababa. Gondar airport is about 15 kilometers from the town itself and costs about $5 for a taxi to get to the center of town.

By road, there are local buses which regularly make the trip from Addis Ababa to Gondar for about $7 one way, but be prepared to share the bus with chickens, plenty of luggage and other people jammed in. The journey is long because of the bad roads, particularly from June to September during the rainy season. Allow for 3 days to get to Gondar, stopping over in Debre Markos and Bahar Dar en route. From Bahar Dar the journey takes about 5 hours.

A lesser known alternative is to hire a 4 x 4 wheel car with a driver and this is much faster and more comfortable option than a bus trip, cost is approximately $25 for a one way trip to Gondar from Addis Ababa.

Gondar – What to See

The city's main royal precinct, known as the Royal Enclosure covers an area of 7.7 hectares which contains 5 castles, raised walkways and connecting tunnels surrounded by high stone walls.

Castle of Fasilades – built of stone around 1640 on the orders of Emperor Fasilidas, it reflects a number of influences, Axumite, Portuguese and Indian. The upper story of the castle offers outstanding views of the surrounding mountains and farmlands all the way to Lake Tana (source of the blue Nile) which is 35 kilometers to the south. Take note of the battlements, turrets and towers and wonderful architecture which is more reminiscent of a European castle than anything found in Africa. Entrance fee is $8.

Other castles and buildings inside the Royal enclosure include Iyasu's palace built by Fasilades' grandson, Dawit's hall, Mentewab's castle, a library and three churches. Fasiladas' bath lies near the city which is still used annually for a ceremony before the season is opened for bathing.

Also of interest to tourists is the Qusquam complex, Ras Mikael Sehul's Palace built in the 18th century and the famous Debre Beran Selassie Church with its colorful interior and magnificently painted ceiling.

The town of Gondar itself reflects sites from more modern occupations, the brief Italian occupation during the 1930's shows buildings and a main piazza that are typically Italian. It is interesting to stroll about the town and see the villas and apartment buildings that used to house officials and colonialists during that time period.

Hotel Accommodation in Gondar

Abba Jelli Hotel, clean, good value with views of the castles.
Hotel Fasilades, on the airport road. Clean and friendly, safe parking for vehicles and a good restaurant.
Queen Taitu, newish hotel but basic construction, a little faded and run down.
Quara Hotel in the main square is a good option – it is a government run hotel with a restaurant that is good value.
Patrice Lumumba, close to the piazza/telecommunications building, the sign is in Aramaic. Prices can be negotiated and there is a restaurant attached.
Yimam, good value and with a restaurant next door with safe parking for vehicles.
There are many other E-grade range hotels in the vicinity of the piazza/telecommunications buildings.
Fagera Hotel, basic, originally built by one of Mussolini's officials as a villa, spacious rooms with historical interest.
There are also campsites available outside of town which offer basic facilities but are very inexpensive for the budget traveler to Ethiopia.

Ethiopia certainly is a unique destination for the traveler to Africa and offers a whole lot more than just game-viewing. Ethiopia's historic sites are as varied and as fascinating as its people, but lesser known than the more famous sites in Egypt to the north.

Source:

The Castles of Gondar and other Monuments, Ethiopia's Major Attractions, Ethiopian Embassy UK