Ethiopian Orthodox Church Treasures of Lake Tana
Ethiopia’s Source of Blue Nile, Ancient Papyrus Boats and Wildlife
Aug 24, 2009
The first Europeans to report seeing Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia, were 16th century Spanish Jesuits on a mission to convert the Ethiopian Orthodox Church to Roman Catholicism. The splendidly colourful religious murals, church vestments and liturgical instruments still in use in the island churches of Lake Tana bear witness to their spectacular failure to do so.
However, it wasn’t until 1770 that Lake Tana was officially recognized in the West as the source of the Blue Nile, but what draws most visitors today is its natural beauty and the cultural wonders of its 22 island churches that have remained secluded from the outside world for many centuries.
Ethiopian Orthodox Treasures on Lake Tana Island Churches
The islands of Lake Tana were valued by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church for two reasons:
- They were naturally peaceful sanctuaries from the usual temptations and bustle of everyday life for the monks. (There are still some monasteries were women are not allowed.)
- Their remoteness made them perfect hiding places for Church treasures (vessels, vestments, ancient icons and manuscripts) when Muslim or other invaders threatened Ethiopia.
They are most remarkable for the lively murals covering most of the interior walls, showing a great number of easily recognizably scenes from the Old and New Testaments. These are peopled by characters that are typically Ethiopian in appearance and even dress, in colours that haven’t faded down the centuries. There are also many items of religious and cultural interest that are unique to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.
- Musical instruments - drums (kebbero) and bronze shakers (sistra).
- Reliquaries, prayer sticks, crosses, bells and vessels still in use.
- A treasury for the most valuable items which typically include ancient illustrated manuscripts, old vestments, icons (holy pictures) and precious liturgical items in gold, silver gilt or bronze.
A priest or monk in traditional garb is usually present to demonstrate and explain the various aspects of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church services and beliefs through an interpreter. Pictures are allowed, but it is not respectful to touch the priest, even to shake hands.
Lake Tana Papyrus Boats and Wildlife
The traditional canoe-style boats (tankwa) are of very ancient design. They are made from tightly bound bundles of papyrus grass like those used by the ancient Egyptians in Pharaonic times. Very light and buoyant, they are still used for fishing and ferrying firewood, making journeys of eight hours or more. Models can be brought from children for a US dollar or two.
‘Fishing fleets’ of Great White pelicans look like floating islands bobbing on the lake. In forested lake fringes look out for black and white Colobus monkeys, kingfishers and darters, with fish eagles and vultures perching on bare branches.
Boat Trips on Lake Tana
Allow half a day for the nearer islands, and a whole day for stopping at more than one island. Mornings are usually the calmest time, which is worth considering, as it can take up to 90 minutes one way. One of the best known is Narga Selassie Church on Dek Island. Beta Mariam is one of the nearest to Bahir Dar and has some wonderfully graphic murals.
Visiting Lake Tana and the island churches of Ethiopia, the world’s oldest country, leaves an unforgettable impression of continuity from biblical times, or of stepping back into the Christian Church of Medieval Europe.
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